Red and white crochet bag

I start by making four granny squares and join them in a circle. Then I add a few rounds of double crochet, alternating red and white yarn, working in the round the whole time.

For the handles, I use double crochet again, but this time I work along the length of the straps. I’m using a 4 mm crochet hook, and the finished bag measures approximately 30 cm (about 12 inches) wide and 26 cm (around 10¼ inches) tall.

To close the bottom of the bag, I use the same method I use to join granny squares — the one I always go back to and prefer. I have a video on my YouTube channel where I show exactly how I do it. Here it is:

Finally, I prepare the lining.

Before I get into the details, let me explain why the lining is such an important part of the process. When you start using a crochet bag, the weight of the things you carry begins to stretch the yarn — especially the handles and the base of the bag. Over time, this stretching can distort the shape and ruin the look of your stitches.

To avoid that, I use a simple solution: the lining. I cut the fabric to match the width of the bag but make it slightly shorter — about 1 cm (roughly ⅜ inch) less in height. Later, I sew the handles onto the lining. In the end, it’s the lining that carries the weight, while the crochet stays intact and keeps its original shape. The handles will stretch a little over time, of course, but that’s fine — what matters is that the bag itself keeps looking good. I use a sewing machine for this, but if you prefer to sew everything by hand, that works too. Just make sure to reinforce the stitches when attaching the handles to the lining.

I start by cutting a cardboard rectangle that’s 8 cm (about 3 ⅛ inches) wide and 3 cm (about 1 ⅛ inches) shorter than the width of the lining. In this case, the lining is 30 cm (about 11 ¾ inches) wide, so the cardboard rectangle measures 27 cm (about 10 ⅝ inches). I use this cardboard piece to mark two rectangles on the fabric. I use a heat-erasable fabric marker, which disappears with a quick press of the iron — a real lifesaver. Then, I cut the fabric, leaving a seam allowance along the edges of each piece.

I fold the edges of each fabric piece along the margins and press them flat with the iron. Then, I fold each piece lengthwise down the middle and press again. Finally, I fold each half toward the center line, so the two edges meet in the middle, and press one last time. This creates neat, sturdy strips ready for the zipper. I made a short video where you can see this process:

Next, I place the zipper between the two folded fabric strips. The zipper should be about 2 cm (roughly ¾ inch) longer than the fabric strips, leaving about 1 cm (⅜ inch) extending beyond each end. This extra length makes it easier to open and close the zipper. I usually buy zipper by the meter, but you can use any type of zipper — just trim it to the correct length. You could also tuck the ends inside, but I’m not sure how neat it looks, as I always do it this way. It’s up to you.

If you do trim the zipper, keep in mind that the fabric edges will fray. To prevent that, I brush on a bit of white liquid glue over the cut edges and let it dry before moving on. Gel glue, like UHU, also works, but I prefer white glue.

To hold the zipper and fabric strips in place, I first pin everything, but before I take it to the sewing machine, I baste it with long stitches to secure it properly. Then I remove the pins and stitch it on the machine. Skipping the basting step usually ends with me pricking my fingers or the zipper shifting out of place, so this method saves a lot of trouble.

Once the zipper is sewn to the fabric strips, it’s time to attach the whole zipper assembly to the lining. I turn the lining right side out and mark a line 1 cm (⅜ inch) below the top edge, as well as 1.5 cm (⅝ inch) from each side.

Then I turn the lining inside out (so the seams face outward) and pin the zipper assembly along the markings. Again, I start with pins, then baste with long stitches, remove the pins, and finish by stitching on the machine. In the next video, I show everything ready for the sewing machine, with the pins already removed:

Now it’s time to sew the crochet handles directly onto the lining, not the crochet bag itself. Like I said before, this way the weight is supported by the fabric lining and the handles together, while the crochet body of the bag stays intact.

Once the handles are attached, I place the lining inside the crochet bag and stitch it in place using invisible stitches along the top edge.

Don’t forget to sew between the handles and the crochet bag. Once that’s done, your bag is all set and ready to use.

If you’ve ever made a crochet bag and felt frustrated when it lost its shape, I hope this trick with the lining helps. It made a huge difference for me! Let me know if you give it a try — or if you’ve found other ways to keep your crochet bags looking their best. I’d love to hear your thoughts.

If you’d like to make the same bag, you can find the granny square pattern in the next link: GrannySquare

See you in the next stitch!

— TeresaM